Seoul Food on Bree
Bree Street has never lacked confidence, but even by its own standards, Maru Korean Steakhouse commands attention. The latest offering from the Pan Collection, it has carved out a spot on Cape Town's most competitive dining strip with attitude to spare. There's a soju bar, a daily Magic Hour, a Saturday fried chicken and bubbles special, and a theatrical streak that runs through everything, right down to the moment your meat is presented and grilled at a dedicated station. The drinks menu, as I was about to discover, deserves just as much attention.
I'll be honest: I'm a margarita snob. I have strong opinions, a low tolerance for mediocrity, and I almost said no when my waitress steered me towards the Honmoon Margarita instead of a classic. I'm very glad she persisted. Unusual, unexpected and quite possibly one of the best margaritas I've had in my life – it delivered a gentle warmth and spice at the back of the throat that felt completely intentional, setting the tone for everything that followed.
The evening began with the gimbap – a seaweed roll threaded with black truffle, sesame, chives, pickled Asian pear and daikon radish – which immediately made clear that this kitchen doesn't do anything halfway. The 18 Karat Golden Nugget, topped with ocean trout roe, was playful in concept and precise in execution. But the dish that stopped the table was the Truffle Gogi Cha, an Angus beef bone consommé so rich and deeply layered it felt less like a starter and more like a statement. The Galbi short rib – marinated in soy, pear and lychee – was equally memorable, the fruit cutting through the richness of the meat in exactly the right way. The vegetable dishes and salads held their own too, proving they are far more than supporting acts.
As a former wine writer, I always appreciate a list that goes off the beaten track, and Maru's is genuinely worth exploring. I landed on a glass of Paul Cluver Pinot Noir that was, frankly, exceptional, before curiosity led me to the Bomalumz Dark Arts – a red blend that turned out to be a worthwhile discovery in its own right. It's refreshing to find a restaurant willing to champion labels that don't appear on every other wine list in the city.
The service deserves special mention. Every member of the team was warm, knowledgeable and genuinely engaged, and that energy contributes enormously to the overall atmosphere. One of the many things Maru gets right is that their chefs handle all the grilling, leaving you free to focus entirely on the food, the wine and the company. I didn't try the steak on this occasion, but watching the grills in action made a return visit inevitable.
Worth knowing: the winter set menu at R349 per person sharing is a brilliant way to experience Maru without committing to the full à la carte – and at that price, it's hard to argue with.
Visit maru.co.za
